Thursday, June 14, 2007
Drigung Valley
More importantly, this time I finally felt like I was no longer just a tourist who happened to come annually but that I finally know the place and people there better. In particular, I think a deeper understanding and appreciation has come to fruition between the director of the monastery – Ven. Samten Puntsok – and me.
In the past years, I’ve been only polite and friendly. This year, I was still polite and all (of course!) but felt comfortable being open and direct. And it was clear that he appreciated that. Samten Puntsok is the most humble director I have ever met –secular or religious. Technically, he is in charged at the monastery. The buck stops at his table. But all the times I have visited with him, he conducts himself as the gracious and humble host. Of course this only speaks to his inner development. Amidst the difficulties and challenges of heading a monastery in Tibet today, most people think he has done very well. And from the little I am able to see, I have to agree. [Balok Rinpoche is in the center and next to him is Samten Puntsok.]Arriving here in time for their annual cham was just an amazing experience. But I think the highlight of the day for our group was meeting with Balok Rinpoche in the Great Assembly Hall (which turned into the dress-room for the dancers) and having a Q&A session with him.
Tulku-la is a very impressive young man (in his 20’s). I first met him on my first trip to Tibet and was instantly impressed. Other than Tibetan, he is fluent in Chinese Mandarin. He is also very good in English – complete American accent and very well versed in Western culture. But at the same time, he is very traditional – like refusing to wear street-clothes no matter the circumstance and maintaining a strict vegetarian diet (actually quite uncommon for Tibetans but a legacy of the Drigung Kagyu). He has been spending his time translating Buddhist writings from Tibetan to Chinese (and to Tibetan) and is hoping to start translating from Tibetan to English. He is also a good thangka painter and as you can see in the pictures below, a superb cham dancer.
When I invited Tulku-la to come visit the US and Southeast Asia, he humbly said, “I would like to do that, but first I need to improve in my learning and practice. Otherwise, it will just be a waste of time and resources.” His conversation with the group really blew away many stereotypes about monks and Buddhism. After spending about an hour with Tulku-la, we decided to take leave as it was clear that he needed to eat his lunch since he will be performing the Black Hat after lunch. He probably needed to digest some of the food before going out to perform what is admittedly the most physically rigorous and spiritually intense dance. We went back out to watch the cham.
At this point, all the deities of the “8 Pronouncements” (an important Ancient Translation [Nyingma] tantric-cycle) were dancing in the courtyard. Around 1pm, I figured that we should probably take leave – the sun in the sky was quite punishing and we needed to get down to the campsite for lunch. 
But as it turned out, we were invited to stay for lunch. This was absolutely “crazy” – the last thing I imagined the monastery should have to worry about is to cook for a bunch of foreigners who came uninvited on probably the busiest day on their ritual-calendar. But Drigung-til treats its guests well – invited or otherwise. But of course, I also knew that they went all out of their way because of the respect and reverence they have for Khenchen Rinpoche. Even though I was the only person connected to Rinpoche, it was enough for the monastery. Secondly, they treated us as also guests of Balok Rinpoche. So there you have it! And where did we dine? In the famous Golden Chapel (Serkhang)! This is where the most holy image of Kyobpa Jikten Sumgon is enshrined and this is where most of the throne-holders of Drigung-til received their vows (lay, novice and full vows). We were all seated in a row in front of the Dharma Lord of the Golden Chapel (the name of the image) flanked by images of Jikten Sumgon’s two heart-disciples (Sherab Jungne and Drakpa Jungne). I tried to eat very mindfully….When we finished lunch and was heading towards the bus, we realized that Tulku-la was dancing. So we stopped and watched and took pictures. It was quite a sight – Tulku-la leading a group of dancers. This dance can be considered the height of the cham as it is the chief Black Hat dancer liberates the obstructive forces by ritually stabbing the dough effigy (Tib. lingka) that had been lying covered on the ground from the beginning of the cham until this point. I will let the pictures speak for themselves.
