Showing posts with label Balok. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Balok. Show all posts
Sunday, June 24, 2007
The Black Hat Dance
Here are some pictures I took of Balok Rinpoche leading the Black Hat Dance - one of the high-points of most cham festivals - at Drigung-til on June 14th. This dance is said to have been first performed by Lhalung Palgyi Dorje, the disciple of Guru Rinpoche who liberated the evil-king Langdarma (r. 838-841) who was persecuting Buddhism in Tibet. This legend has been interpreted in this dance as the dance for powerfully overcoming especially pernicious obstacles and negativities - all of which are understood by Buddhists to have originated from ego-clinging or self-grasping.
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
Another post from Drigung Valley
NOTE: Continuing from "Our Second Day at Drigung-til."
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Drigung Valley
More importantly, this time I finally felt like I was no longer just a tourist who happened to come annually but that I finally know the place and people there better. In particular, I think a deeper understanding and appreciation has come to fruition between the director of the monastery – Ven. Samten Puntsok – and me.
In the past years, I’ve been only polite and friendly. This year, I was still polite and all (of course!) but felt comfortable being open and direct. And it was clear that he appreciated that. Samten Puntsok is the most humble director I have ever met –secular or religious. Technically, he is in charged at the monastery. The buck stops at his table. But all the times I have visited with him, he conducts himself as the gracious and humble host. Of course this only speaks to his inner development. Amidst the difficulties and challenges of heading a monastery in Tibet today, most people think he has done very well. And from the little I am able to see, I have to agree. [Balok Rinpoche is in the center and next to him is Samten Puntsok.]
Arriving here in time for their annual cham was just an amazing experience. But I think the highlight of the day for our group was meeting with Balok Rinpoche in the Great Assembly Hall (which turned into the dress-room for the dancers) and having a Q&A session with him.
Tulku-la is a very impressive young man (in his 20’s). I first met him on my first trip to Tibet and was instantly impressed. Other than Tibetan, he is fluent in Chinese Mandarin. He is also very good in English – complete American accent and very well versed in Western culture. But at the same time, he is very traditional – like refusing to wear street-clothes no matter the circumstance and maintaining a strict vegetarian diet (actually quite uncommon for Tibetans but a legacy of the Drigung Kagyu). He has been spending his time translating Buddhist writings from Tibetan to Chinese (and to Tibetan) and is hoping to start translating from Tibetan to English. He is also a good thangka painter and as you can see in the pictures below, a superb cham dancer.
When I invited Tulku-la to come visit the US and Southeast Asia, he humbly said, “I would like to do that, but first I need to improve in my learning and practice. Otherwise, it will just be a waste of time and resources.” His conversation with the group really blew away many stereotypes about monks and Buddhism.
After spending about an hour with Tulku-la, we decided to take leave as it was clear that he needed to eat his lunch since he will be performing the Black Hat after lunch. He probably needed to digest some of the food before going out to perform what is admittedly the most physically rigorous and spiritually intense dance. We went back out to watch the cham.
At this point, all the deities of the “8 Pronouncements” (an important Ancient Translation [Nyingma] tantric-cycle) were dancing in the courtyard. Around 1pm, I figured that we should probably take leave – the sun in the sky was quite punishing and we needed to get down to the campsite for lunch.
But as it turned out, we were invited to stay for lunch. This was absolutely “crazy” – the last thing I imagined the monastery should have to worry about is to cook for a bunch of foreigners who came uninvited on probably the busiest day on their ritual-calendar. But Drigung-til treats its guests well – invited or otherwise. But of course, I also knew that they went all out of their way because of the respect and reverence they have for Khenchen Rinpoche. Even though I was the only person connected to Rinpoche, it was enough for the monastery. Secondly, they treated us as also guests of Balok Rinpoche. So there you have it! And where did we dine? In the famous Golden Chapel (Serkhang)! This is where the most holy image of Kyobpa Jikten Sumgon is enshrined and this is where most of the throne-holders of Drigung-til received their vows (lay, novice and full vows). We were all seated in a row in front of the Dharma Lord of the Golden Chapel (the name of the image) flanked by images of Jikten Sumgon’s two heart-disciples (Sherab Jungne and Drakpa Jungne). I tried to eat very mindfully….
When we finished lunch and was heading towards the bus, we realized that Tulku-la was dancing. So we stopped and watched and took pictures. It was quite a sight – Tulku-la leading a group of dancers. This dance can be considered the height of the cham as it is the chief Black Hat dancer liberates the obstructive forces by ritually stabbing the dough effigy (Tib. lingka) that had been lying covered on the ground from the beginning of the cham until this point. I will let the pictures speak for themselves.
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Drigung Valley
More importantly, this time I finally felt like I was no longer just a tourist who happened to come annually but that I finally know the place and people there better. In particular, I think a deeper understanding and appreciation has come to fruition between the director of the monastery – Ven. Samten Puntsok – and me.
In the past years, I’ve been only polite and friendly. This year, I was still polite and all (of course!) but felt comfortable being open and direct. And it was clear that he appreciated that. Samten Puntsok is the most humble director I have ever met –secular or religious. Technically, he is in charged at the monastery. The buck stops at his table. But all the times I have visited with him, he conducts himself as the gracious and humble host. Of course this only speaks to his inner development. Amidst the difficulties and challenges of heading a monastery in Tibet today, most people think he has done very well. And from the little I am able to see, I have to agree. [Balok Rinpoche is in the center and next to him is Samten Puntsok.]Arriving here in time for their annual cham was just an amazing experience. But I think the highlight of the day for our group was meeting with Balok Rinpoche in the Great Assembly Hall (which turned into the dress-room for the dancers) and having a Q&A session with him.
Tulku-la is a very impressive young man (in his 20’s). I first met him on my first trip to Tibet and was instantly impressed. Other than Tibetan, he is fluent in Chinese Mandarin. He is also very good in English – complete American accent and very well versed in Western culture. But at the same time, he is very traditional – like refusing to wear street-clothes no matter the circumstance and maintaining a strict vegetarian diet (actually quite uncommon for Tibetans but a legacy of the Drigung Kagyu). He has been spending his time translating Buddhist writings from Tibetan to Chinese (and to Tibetan) and is hoping to start translating from Tibetan to English. He is also a good thangka painter and as you can see in the pictures below, a superb cham dancer.
When I invited Tulku-la to come visit the US and Southeast Asia, he humbly said, “I would like to do that, but first I need to improve in my learning and practice. Otherwise, it will just be a waste of time and resources.” His conversation with the group really blew away many stereotypes about monks and Buddhism. After spending about an hour with Tulku-la, we decided to take leave as it was clear that he needed to eat his lunch since he will be performing the Black Hat after lunch. He probably needed to digest some of the food before going out to perform what is admittedly the most physically rigorous and spiritually intense dance. We went back out to watch the cham.
At this point, all the deities of the “8 Pronouncements” (an important Ancient Translation [Nyingma] tantric-cycle) were dancing in the courtyard. Around 1pm, I figured that we should probably take leave – the sun in the sky was quite punishing and we needed to get down to the campsite for lunch. 
But as it turned out, we were invited to stay for lunch. This was absolutely “crazy” – the last thing I imagined the monastery should have to worry about is to cook for a bunch of foreigners who came uninvited on probably the busiest day on their ritual-calendar. But Drigung-til treats its guests well – invited or otherwise. But of course, I also knew that they went all out of their way because of the respect and reverence they have for Khenchen Rinpoche. Even though I was the only person connected to Rinpoche, it was enough for the monastery. Secondly, they treated us as also guests of Balok Rinpoche. So there you have it! And where did we dine? In the famous Golden Chapel (Serkhang)! This is where the most holy image of Kyobpa Jikten Sumgon is enshrined and this is where most of the throne-holders of Drigung-til received their vows (lay, novice and full vows). We were all seated in a row in front of the Dharma Lord of the Golden Chapel (the name of the image) flanked by images of Jikten Sumgon’s two heart-disciples (Sherab Jungne and Drakpa Jungne). I tried to eat very mindfully….When we finished lunch and was heading towards the bus, we realized that Tulku-la was dancing. So we stopped and watched and took pictures. It was quite a sight – Tulku-la leading a group of dancers. This dance can be considered the height of the cham as it is the chief Black Hat dancer liberates the obstructive forces by ritually stabbing the dough effigy (Tib. lingka) that had been lying covered on the ground from the beginning of the cham until this point. I will let the pictures speak for themselves.
Friday, June 15, 2007
"This meditation-rock of Drigung..."
NOTE: The next few entries are back-dated (is this what I am trying to say??). I just got back from Drigung-til where there was no Internet access (thankfully).
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
10:39 pm, Drigung Valley
Earlier this afternoon, we arrived at Drigung and our tents were already all set-up. The Windhorse folks are amazing. I'm happy to be back. The mere sight of the Drigung-til when we passed the turn-off to Terdrom brought a deep joy and gratitude.
After a couple of hours at the campsite, getting ourselves into tents, checking out the site (lots and lots of wild-flowers blooming this year) and enjoying tea, we went up to the monastery. It was packed with people as this is the annual cham (monastic dance) festival. Samten Puntsok, the director of the monastery – a tall, stately but also kind and soft-spoken monk, probably in his forties, received us. While the rest of the group looked around, Bhuchung-la and I went up to the smaller guest room and were served butter-tea by Samten Puntsok. Within a few minutes, Balok Rinpoche came from his retreat-house above the monastery. It was really good seeing Balok Rinpoche again. He has been up here at Drigung-til teaching the monks basic Tibetan grammar and Mandarin Chinese and of course, he will be dancing one of the major parts in the cham that will take place tomorrow. Rinpoche looked good – he has put on some weight, in a good way. He had with him a monk who’s learning English as well as two other young Tibetans who are currently helping with his and his father’s projects. He introduced me to them and we had a nice time chatting. I didn’t stay too long since it was getting late and the group was tired and some were suffering from altitude sickness – the monastery is around 14,000 feet.
It’s late and the barking of dogs can be heard from a distance. Perhaps they’re in the village further up the road or perhaps they might even be from the monastery way up on the ridge. Drigung Valley, where we are camping, is a little over 13,000 feet and Drigung-til Monastery sits perched on a ridge, another 800 or even a thousand feet above us. So here I am, sitting in my single-person tent, typing away.
I’ve just finished watching a DVD featuring the recent development and growth of the Drigung Kagyu Lineage under the leadership of the two co-heads of the lineage – the Drigung Kyabgons. The rest of our group had gone to bed early. But I remembered having the DVD with me and my iBook was all charged-up and I thought, why not? Huddled together in the kitchen tent with our guide, driver, cook and helpers, we watched for a little over an hour. There was lots of footage on an important lama who they cannot openly talk about and cannot have pictures of (you-know-who)… It was a bitter-sweet experience. I suddenly felt like a complete outsider in that tent as I realized that no matter how much I think I revere this person and the effect I feel he has on me every time I see his picture or video footage of him, I recognized in that tent tonight that I have no idea what he truly means to the Tibetans. May the Holder of the White Lotus, the Buddha of Compassion, live long for hundreds of kalpas!
They’ve kindly set up my tent a little away from the rest of the group (not that I needed that at all!) but most heartening is they’ve set it up so that I’m facing the monastery directly – the only tent facing that way. Kyobpa Rinpoche’s (founder of Drigung-til in 1179) words “This meditation-rock of Drigung is inseparable from me in the three times” keep coming up in my mind. And I think I experienced the reality of those words today. I think.
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
10:39 pm, Drigung Valley
Earlier this afternoon, we arrived at Drigung and our tents were already all set-up. The Windhorse folks are amazing. I'm happy to be back. The mere sight of the Drigung-til when we passed the turn-off to Terdrom brought a deep joy and gratitude.
After a couple of hours at the campsite, getting ourselves into tents, checking out the site (lots and lots of wild-flowers blooming this year) and enjoying tea, we went up to the monastery. It was packed with people as this is the annual cham (monastic dance) festival. Samten Puntsok, the director of the monastery – a tall, stately but also kind and soft-spoken monk, probably in his forties, received us. While the rest of the group looked around, Bhuchung-la and I went up to the smaller guest room and were served butter-tea by Samten Puntsok. Within a few minutes, Balok Rinpoche came from his retreat-house above the monastery. It was really good seeing Balok Rinpoche again. He has been up here at Drigung-til teaching the monks basic Tibetan grammar and Mandarin Chinese and of course, he will be dancing one of the major parts in the cham that will take place tomorrow. Rinpoche looked good – he has put on some weight, in a good way. He had with him a monk who’s learning English as well as two other young Tibetans who are currently helping with his and his father’s projects. He introduced me to them and we had a nice time chatting. I didn’t stay too long since it was getting late and the group was tired and some were suffering from altitude sickness – the monastery is around 14,000 feet.
It’s late and the barking of dogs can be heard from a distance. Perhaps they’re in the village further up the road or perhaps they might even be from the monastery way up on the ridge. Drigung Valley, where we are camping, is a little over 13,000 feet and Drigung-til Monastery sits perched on a ridge, another 800 or even a thousand feet above us. So here I am, sitting in my single-person tent, typing away.
I’ve just finished watching a DVD featuring the recent development and growth of the Drigung Kagyu Lineage under the leadership of the two co-heads of the lineage – the Drigung Kyabgons. The rest of our group had gone to bed early. But I remembered having the DVD with me and my iBook was all charged-up and I thought, why not? Huddled together in the kitchen tent with our guide, driver, cook and helpers, we watched for a little over an hour. There was lots of footage on an important lama who they cannot openly talk about and cannot have pictures of (you-know-who)… It was a bitter-sweet experience. I suddenly felt like a complete outsider in that tent as I realized that no matter how much I think I revere this person and the effect I feel he has on me every time I see his picture or video footage of him, I recognized in that tent tonight that I have no idea what he truly means to the Tibetans. May the Holder of the White Lotus, the Buddha of Compassion, live long for hundreds of kalpas!
They’ve kindly set up my tent a little away from the rest of the group (not that I needed that at all!) but most heartening is they’ve set it up so that I’m facing the monastery directly – the only tent facing that way. Kyobpa Rinpoche’s (founder of Drigung-til in 1179) words “This meditation-rock of Drigung is inseparable from me in the three times” keep coming up in my mind. And I think I experienced the reality of those words today. I think.
